A new year ushers in a fresh start, which means it’s the ideal time to try something out of the ordinary. You might be thinking along the lines of a new haircut, like the choppy bob or the “hush cut”. Perhaps you see it as an opportunity to audit your skincare routine. Or maybe you’re in the market for a new, signature scent — in which case, read on.
From Phlur Father Figure to Kayali Pistachio Yum, perfume reigned supreme in 2023, but the upcoming year promises even more shiny new launches, and with them a host of unexpected fragrance trends. Think: new ways to store your perfume to maximise the staying power and unique note combinations guaranteed to pique the interest of passersby.
So here’s everything you need to be the best-smelling person in the room in 2024, courtesy of a handful of the industry’s coolest fragrance influencers and perfumers.
Neon florals
Far from your grandmother’s rose, neon florals encapsulate everything you love about bouquet notes (sweet and fresh) with an added zingy tang. “This trend is all about updating classic floral notes, giving them an edginess and intensity that revolutionises the fragrance family,” says Nick Gilbert, creative director of Eau de Boujee and Boujee Bougies. “Imagine Victorian roses, stark irises and white florals from the ’20s shaken up with vivid light: Modern fruity notes and unexpected hallucinatory elements, which add modernity to floral fragrances.”
Gilbert recommends Gallivant Los Angeles Eau de Parfum, £70, (rich tuberose, soothing eucalyptus and creamy guaiac wood), Dries Van Noten Neon Garden Eau de Parfum, £22 (musk, spearmint and iris), La Montana Divine Sunset Eau de Parfum, £65 (orange and lavender), and Eau de Boujee Queen Eau de Parfum, £160 (rhubarb, rose and musk). If you’d rather spend less, & Other Stories Neon Rose Eau de Toilette, £28, boasts jasmine, orchid and ruby cherry.
Wellness fragrance
Research shows that aromatherapy is effective for reducing stress and anxiety, so it makes sense that we’re scoping out perfumes with equally soothing and calming elements. According to Eudora Nwasike, a fragrance specialist certified by The Fragrance Foundation UK, so-called “wellness fragrances” can influence our mood throughout the day. “Fragrance brands such as Le Jardin Retrouvé and Edeniste are at the forefront of this concept, with the common goal of spotlighting fragrance to improve our emotional wellbeing,” says Nwasike. In fact, Edeniste has developed the Feel Good Program, which offers a series of online olfactory “therapies”. There’s “Emotional Regulation Therapy”, which the brand claims improves quality of life and balance, as well as “Sense of Smell Rehabilitation”. If you’re on the hunt for a perfume with calming notes, Nwasike rates Edeniste Happiness, £68 (musk, mango and coconut), and Le Jardin Retrouvé Osmanthe Liu Yuan Eau de Parfum, £105 (apricot and peach). Also try Zara Vapeur Blanche Eau de Parfum, £25.99, with comforting eucalyptus, cedar wood and musk.
A breath of fresh air
“After an era dominated by sweet and indulgent fragrances, the perfume landscape seems poised for a refreshing change: something crisp, effervescent and lemony,” predicts Anastasia Gostieva, aka Scent Guide on Instagram. These cooler scents will define winter, says Gostieva. “Notable examples include the uplifting and energetic Goldfield & Banks Australia Ingenious Ginger Perfume Spray, £99 [vanilla, lemon and ginger flower], the citrusy, happy and bright Arquiste L’Or de Louis Eau de Parfum, £200, and the fruity, juicy Kayali Eden Sparkling Lychee 39 Eau de Parfum, £79.” If you’re on a budget, try Provenance Calm After the Storm Eau De Parfum, £15, with cucumber, watermelon and seaweed.
Vibrant greens
Vegetal notes like carrot and beetroot took 2023 by storm and the trend isn’t slowing down. “Fragrances enlivened with fresh, vibrant, bright herbal and green notes are a key trend that will continue as we move into 2024,” says Gilbert. “Newer launches into this category take well trodden notes [think eucalyptus, vetiver, wood and rosemary] and enrich them with incredible complexity.” Eau de Boujee Verdant Eau de Parfum, £160, for example, combines tomato leaf with cactus, sandalwood and musk, so it occupies a cosy space between sweet and savoury. Gilbert also recommends La Montana First Light Eau de Parfum, £65 (herbs and florals), and Maison Francis Kurkdjian Aqua Medea Eau de Parfum, £175 (fennel and bergamot). Also try Discover Intense Fresh Citrus & Moss Eau De Toilette, £12.50, and Aesop Ouranon Eau de Parfum, £140, with frankincense, hay and myrrh.
Unconventional gourmands
“Gourmand” describes a fragrance with sweet or “edible” notes, like vanilla, caramel, honey and chocolate. Gostieva says that the industry is saturated with such scents, but brands are seeking unconventional ways to capture our attention. Gostieva adds that unique notes such as whipped meringue (think Jean Paul Gaultier Gaultier Divine Eau de Parfum, £66), and cotton candy (Kayali Yum Pistachio Gelato 33 Eau de Parfum, £78.90) were everywhere in 2023, but that the coming year will bring even more innovative scents. “Perhaps it’ll explore notes reminiscent of Chupa Chups, Mont Blanc dessert, and boba tea,” predicts Gostieva.
On the other hand, Nwasike foresees that some perfume houses will tone down the saccharine. “Edible notes will be intertwined with spicy, earthy, woody notes like saffron, patchouli, cardamom and vetiver to create complexity and sophistication.” Try Ariana Grande Cloud Pink Eau De Parfum, £33 (praline, vanilla and moss), Lancôme La Vie est Belle L’Extrait Eau de Parfum, £71 (orange blossom, damascena rose and oud wood), Kayali Oudgasm Vanilla Oud 36, £119 (vanilla, praline and saffron), and Discover Intense Red Berries & Rose Eau de Toilette, £12.50.
If rich fragrances such as these are your bag, but yours isn’t lasting as long as you’d hope, Nwasike suggests trying perfume maceration, essentially oxidising your perfume: “Fragrance brands macerate their perfumes at their factories before the perfumes are sold, and it’s an important step,” says Nwasike. “But some people decide to extend the maceration period at home, especially if the scent has poor longevity and performance.” If you decide to macerate your perfume at home to improve the projection, Nwasike suggests spritzing it once and storing it in a cool, dry place away from heat and direct sunlight for around three months — if you can wait.
@fragranceadventures Are your fragrances not lasting long? Have you tried macerating your perfumes? This trick will help them last much longer! 🔥#nichefragrance #perfumehack #maceration #lifehacks #longlasting ♬ original sound – Fragrance Adventures
Modern golden ambers
Amber, says Gilbert, is a classic perfumery note built around the synergy between labdanum (a sticky, woody resin), benzoin (another resin from tree trunks), warm vanilla and often patchouli, a flower which is equal parts earthy and sweet. “Modern amber [perfumes] take this theme and marry it with newer aroma materials that are available to perfumers, often reminiscent of salty skin,” says Gilbert, aka “skin scents”. The combination of warm and salty notes takes the concept of “your skin but better” and amplifies it into a statement fragrance, says Gilbert.
Gilbert recommends D.S. & Durga Deep Dark Vanilla Eau de Parfum, £229 (green vanilla leaves and pink pepper) and Eau de Boujee Gilded Eau de Parfum, £160 (labdanum, musk and leather). You might also like & Other Stories Act 1, Scene 3 Eau de Toilette, £29, with amber, leather, patchouli and blackcurrant.
The new iris
“Iris [a purple flower with a powdery scent, also referred to as ‘orris’] still carries an antiquated essence, reminiscent of grandma’s old powder puff,” says Gostieva, but don’t let that put you off. “Several brands have introduced fresh interpretations of this note, and now, they exude a modern allure that is spicy and soft.” Gostieva rates Penhaligon’s The Omniscient Mr. Thompson Eau de Parfum, £220 (iris, pink pepper and sesame seeds) and Guerlain Shalimar Millésime Iris Eau de Parfum, £102 (iris and vanilla). “While this may be more of a micro trend,” adds Gostieva, “the fact that Guerlain selected this note for its iconic Shalimar flanker this year speaks volumes!” Also try Zara Red Vanilla Eau de Toilette, £12.99 (iris, tangerine and raspberry) and Discovery Soft Iris Eau de Toilette, £6 (iris, patchouli and tonka bean, which evokes vanilla).
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