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I’m indifferent about many skincare products: Expensive eye creams, targeted hyaluronic acid serums and vitamin C are just a handful that I could happily pass on, but there are some that I can’t do without. Firstly, a gentle cleanser to remove oil and makeup without stripping the skin; secondly, a broad-spectrum, high-factor sunscreen to protect against damaging UV rays; and lastly, a lightweight yet substantial moisturiser that I can use in all seasons.
Despite an abundance of skincare brands at my fingertips, the latter is quite difficult to come by. Conversations with friends and colleagues prove that I’m not the only one who wants something rich enough for the winter but not too buttery that it breaks me out come summer. I need to know that it hydrates and smooths not just instantly but cumulatively over time, so it has to harness some impressive ingredients. Most importantly, it has to be affordable. While I’m lucky enough to receive many beauty samples as part of my job, I believe that a consistent routine is the key to skin you’re happy with. In other words, I’m willing to pay for a product that I know works, but it can’t be eye-wateringly expensive.
On paper, this seems like far too many requirements, but when The Inkey List’s Bio-Active Ceramide Moisturiser, £19, landed on my desk, it immediately ticked all the boxes. What swayed me about this moisturiser was the promise of “visibly smooth” and “firm skin”, and a stronger skin barrier. Before I discovered this in December, I’d been using tretinoin — a prescription-strength retinoid — for acne. My skin was parched, flaky and sensitive. Any moisturiser I used following treatment had burned or not been quenching enough. This? It was perfect.
I’ve since taken a break from prescribed skincare but have continued to use Inkey’s moisturiser. The star ingredient is exactly what it says on the tin: bio-active ceramides. Without subjecting you to a chemistry lesson, ceramides are essentially fats — found naturally in our bodies — that hold our skin cells together. Potent skincare ingredients like retinoids and exfoliating acids, plus factors like cold weather and over-cleansing, can all sap our skin’s ceramide reserves and weaken the skin barrier, leading to dryness. In short, looking for a moisturiser that incorporates ceramides into the formula is always a good idea. The “bio-active” part simply means that it is biologically active, and has an effect on a living tissue or cell. In this case, that’s the various layers of your skin.
The second intriguing ingredient is gransil blur, which I hadn’t heard of in skincare until now. This is a combination of powders with round particles; when applied on the skin they lend a blurring, soft-focus effect much like a makeup primer or a pore minimising serum. The last two primary ingredients (moisturising glycerin and shea butter) are certainly nothing special, but there’s a reason why cosmetic chemists continue to use them: they quench and soothe dry, irritated skin almost instantly.
Admittedly, I’d put off trying this moisturiser thanks to the addition of shea butter (an ingredient I’m told can be pore clogging) but curiosity got the better of me. In the tub, Bio-Active Ceramide looks like a thick, cosseting cream (think Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream, £79, or Crème de la Mer Moisturising Cream, £165) but it’s much lighter and silkier in texture and absorbs quickly without leaving a greasy film on the skin. Surprisingly, my breakouts have been few and far between since using this and I’m convinced that’s because the ceramides are keeping my skin barrier happy. While many things cause breakouts like hormones, genetics and lifestyle factors, some data shows a correlation between ceramide deficiencies and acne. The lightweight texture of this moisturiser is especially important to me as a glasses-wearer; anything too heavy means they constantly slip off my face. Another win? It’s fragrance free.
This moisturiser certainly delivers on its promise of smoother, plumper skin. Last year, a bad Botox experience saw me swear off injectables in favour of hydrating skincare. When I use this moisturiser, injectables don’t cross my mind. Not only is this down to the abundance of moisturising ingredients, but it’s thanks to the aforementioned blurring particles which lend the illusion of more seamless skin. It’s not just me; I realised how good this moisturiser was when I began to receive countless compliments on my skin sans makeup. This never happens. In my experience, close friends and family are more likely to point out my spots and pigmentation, but almost all of them praised my newfound glow and even skin tone. In fact, it gave me the confidence to go entirely makeup free on a flight jam-packed with beauty influencers recently.
Don’t just take my word for it, though: This moisturiser has been on pretty much every beauty journalist’s lips at the various events I’ve attended. Rachel Martin, junior beauty editor at Grazia, is one such expert who also extols its virtues: “My skin is oily and acne prone, so it’s taken me a long time to rewire my brain when it comes to choosing moisturisers,” says Martin. “Often, I’d write off potential candidates as being too rich, and, ultimately too pore clogging. On paper, the Inkey List’s was one that I’d typically avoid — it’s bursting with shea butter and ceramides, ingredients typically suited to drier skin types. The reviews, however? Well, they convinced me it was worth trying.” A pea-sized amount post-cleanse is rich and luxurious without being overwhelming, says Martin. “In fact, my typical redness, fine lines and irritation appeared soothed and reduced within weeks. Crucially, my skin looked better without foundation, and there’s the clever addition of gransil blur to thank for that.”
Emma Gunavardhana, beauty editor and host of The Emma Guns Show, was won over by the texture alone: “It’s the kind of hydrating layer than instantly quenches and absorbs into skin,” says Gunavardhana. “But this isn’t just about the instant hit of moisture; this makes skin feel quenched and look plumped — think well-watered — for a good while after application.” User trials confirm what Gunavardhana noticed after a month of use: “A visible improvement on my skin, a plumpness that made fine lines appear more shallow than before.” Freelance beauty editor Rebecca Fearn also loves the texture: “It feels so luxurious and it’s comparable to very expensive formulas I’ve tried and have in my collection,” she told me. “I’m also big on anything that will build up my skin barrier and ceramides are some of my favourite ingredients.”
Likewise, freelance beauty journalist Vanese Maddix suspected that if this moisturiser was anything like the brand’s Polyglutamic Acid Dewy Sunscreen SPF 30, £15 (which she loves during the summer for an effortless glow, hydration and sun protection), it would become a staple in her skincare routine. “I haven’t put this down since I opened it,” said Maddix. “My skin has been particularly dry recently thanks to the cold weather and this moisturiser has helped tackle that. A little goes a long way for hydration that lasts all day.”
Here’s the kicker: I finished my tub of Bio-Active Ceramide last week and moved on to another moisturiser with a £110 price tag. Almost immediately I noticed a dip in the quality of my skin: I’m breaking out and that healthy sheen that earned me so many compliments has all but disappeared. At £19, Bio-Active Ceramide is proof that you don’t have to spend a small fortune on effective skincare. I believe that’s exactly why it just sold out at Boots, Cult Beauty, Selfridges and Beauty Bay. Happily, you can still purchase a tub directly from the brand’s website. Trust me, it’s going to become a cult classic.
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