Something strange has been happening to my lips. While I tend to go heavy on the lip care in colder months, they normally require minimal maintenance in the summer, thanks to the increased humidity in warmer air. This year, however, I’ve noticed the complete opposite. My lips have been feeling extra raw and dehydrated, with bits of skin peeling off like fish scales. Slathering on my go-to hydrating lip balm hasn’t helped one bit.
I attributed my lip troubles to recovering from a nasty flu at the beginning of summer but it didn’t seem to explain this prolonged period of dryness. It wasn’t until I spoke to a dermatologist that I got an a-ha moment: My cracked lips might have something to do with sun damage.
Despite diligently wearing sunscreen daily (on my face and body and reapplying every two hours), I’ll be the first to admit that I often forget SPF protection on my lips. Many SPF lip balms have a weird, unctuous texture that doesn’t sit nicely under my favourite lip stains and glosses, while plenty taste bitter. Regardless, skipping SPF on your lips might not be the best idea: “The skin on your lips differs from that of the rest of your body,” explains consultant dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips. “It’s thin, sensitive and prone to loss of moisture. Your lips are also constantly exposed to UV radiation from the sun, which over time causes further thinning, redness, pigmentation and increases the risk of developing skin cancer.”
Put simply, burnt lips are just as common as burnt shoulders. But the aftermath might look a little different. With that in mind, I asked dermatologists and skin experts to give me the lowdown on the warning signs, as well as the products that can help protect, soothe and repair sun-damaged lips — this summer and beyond.
What is the cause of sunburned lips and what are the signs to look out for?
There are a few telltale signs of sunburned lips. According to Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and founder of Self London, sun-damaged lips often appear dry, rough and scaly. The skin may show discolouration, ranging from a white, pale appearance to darkened or uneven patches. Fine lines or deep cracks can develop, making the lips feel sore or sensitive, and there might be persistent swelling and redness.
These signs might be more prominent on the lower lip, since it’s more exposed to the sun. “In more severe cases, you might notice a condition known as actinic cheilitis [a precancerous condition also known as ‘sailor’s lip’], characterised by thickened, scaly patches or even a slightly raised, rough texture,” adds Dr Mahto. This can be a precursor to more serious conditions. For example, melanoma — a type of cancer that can spread to other areas of the body — can be triggered on the border of your lips.
Are there certain ingredients that people with sunburned lips should avoid?
If your lips are sunburned, using an SPF lip balm to prevent further UV damage is key. SPF 30 or higher is ideal, though higher SPF formulations can affect the texture, feel and appearance of the lip product, making it thicker or less comfortable to wear.
Dr Mahto recommends avoiding products containing ingredients like menthol, camphor or salicylic acid, as they can be drying or irritating. Fragrances and certain chemical UV filters, such as oxybenzone, may also cause irritation in some people. “If you have sensitive lips, look for lip sunscreens with moisturising ingredients like beeswax, shea butter or natural oils,” she adds. “Physical UV blockers such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, which are less likely to cause irritation and offer broad-spectrum protection, are also a good choice.” Mahto swears by Paula’s Choice SPF 50 Lip Balm, £14, as well as Ultrasun Ultralip SPF 30, £8.
The best products to help repair sunburned lips
When you have sunburned lips, soothing and repairing products are essential. Advanced skin nurse practitioner Emma Wedgwood recommends looking for products that contain humectants (which draw moisture into the skin) and emollients (which lock in moisture) like lanolin, hyaluronic acid and glycerin. These will replenish the hydration levels of your skin barrier, the outermost layer of your skin.
I asked skincare experts to share the best lip balms, sleeping masks and serums to help alleviate damage caused by UV exposure — and here’s everything they chose.
CeraVe Advanced Repair Ointment, £11 £8.80
“This is a top choice for managing sunburned lips. The ointment contains hyaluronic acid, which is a deeply hydrating ingredient, and three essential ceramides to repair and restore the skin barrier. In addition, the presence of petrolatum provides a protective seal, locking in moisture and allowing the lips to heal.” — Dr Derrick Phillips, consultant dermatologist
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Eucerin Aquaphor Soothing Skin Balm, £10.12
“This is a versatile, fragrance-free ointment that provides deep hydration and forms a protective barrier to lock in moisture. It’s especially beneficial for sunburned lips because it contains petrolatum, which helps to seal in moisture and prevent further drying. The addition of glycerin [which draws moisture to the skin] and vitamin B5 [which helps the skin retain moisture] aids in skin repair and soothes irritation, promoting faster healing of the damaged skin.” — Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and founder of Self London
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Chanel Hydra Beauty Micro Sérum, £52
“When my chapped lips were at their worst, I relied on this lip serum to smooth over the cracks and alleviate irritation. It contains micro droplets of white camellia extract, which calms and moisturises the skin without greasiness, and hyaluronic acid — my go-to ingredient for reducing moisture loss. I love how the product applies like a lip jelly and transforms into a more serum-oil hybrid texture after a few minutes. It absorbs into my lips so quickly, and is so effective at reducing flakiness. I often use this as a base before I apply my favourite lip colour.” — Venus Wong, senior writer
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Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask, £21
“This popular overnight treatment is known for its deeply moisturising properties, making it perfect for sunburned lips. It contains hyaluronic acid and a mix of grape, pomegranate and raspberry juices rich in antioxidants, which help to soothe and repair the lips while you sleep. The mask’s thick consistency ensures that it stays on the lips all night, providing long-lasting hydration.” — Emma Wedgwood, advanced skin nurse practitioner and founder of Emma Wedgwood Aesthetics
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HC45 Hydrocortisone Cream, £5.49
“This is a mild steroid with anti-inflammatory properties that should be applied twice a day for the first 48 hours. It will reduce redness, swelling and discomfort, and hasten recovery.” — Dr Derrick Phillips, consultant dermatologist
Editor’s note: While this is a weaker 1% steroid suitable for areas with thinner skin such as lips, it is always recommended to consult a skincare professional or GP before you go ahead and buy.
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The Ordinary Squalane + Amino Acids Lip Balm, £8.50
“This lip balm is like no other I’ve tried. The texture is silky, not sticky, so it sinks into parched lips fast. The star ingredients are squalane, which creates a barrier on the skin to prevent further moisture loss, as well as amino acids. These are the ‘building blocks’ of proteins, which are important for creating the likes of collagen and elastin — two things that keep skin soft and supple. I apply one layer and massage it in with my fingers, then apply a second layer and let it sit there, protecting my lips from the elements. If I’m out and about, I love Bondi Sands’ Lip Balm with SPF 50 Toasted Coconut. It’s one of a few sunscreen lip balms that doesn’t taste bitter.” — Jacqueline Kilikita, Refinery29 deputy beauty director
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Burt’s Bees Overnight Intensive Lip Treatment, £9.99
“This treatment is another great option for sunburned lips. It contains ceramides, which help to restore the lips’ natural barrier, and it’s infused with natural oils like jojoba and shea butter for deep moisturisation. [It’s] a solid choice for those with sensitive or damaged lips.” — Emma Wedgwood, advanced skin nurse practitioner and founder of Emma Wedgwood Aesthetics
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