In 2020 I had blonde hair, was living in London and travelling for over two hours to have my roots done in Nottingham. I know what you’re thinking: What a faff! But it was much cheaper than booking into a London-based salon — even after taking the train fare into account. 

Post-pandemic, it became too expensive even to do this so I dyed my hair dark and gave up, opting for annual cuts rather than six-weekly highlights. Ultimately, I was priced out of having my hair done, and it seems I’m not the only one. Many of my friends share similar experiences. Some are considering free “student nights”, where student hairdressers use you as a guinea pig while they learn the ropes. Others travel far and wide, some cut their own hair — and the rest leave it altogether.

Lila*, 31, also lives in London, where the average price of a wash, cut and blowdry is £62. In central London, prices often reach almost double that. “I get my hair cut in Bedford,” Lila says. In 2021, it cost her £45; since then, it has jumped up to £60. On top of her hair products, this is too expensive for Lila, especially when taking the price of petrol or train tickets into account. 

Thanks to the rising expense, some are eschewing haircuts altogether. Laura, 27, says she’s simply stopped going to the salon. “It’s either an expensive haircut frequently or breakage for free,” she says, “and unfortunately, I have to choose the free breakage.” Laura notes that her split ends are preventing her from reaching her desired length, but this isn’t enough for her to justify the industry’s current prices.

Why are haircuts so expensive lately?

What with the UK’s cost of living crisis, which has seen rent, energy and food costs skyrocket while wages lag far behind, it’s no surprise that hair salons have seen a 94% increase in daily running costs since 2019, according to the British Beauty Council. Adam Reed, celebrity hairstylist and founder of ARKIVE, says that while it might look like prices are rising, “salons are struggling to survive”. Reed tells me that he tries to absorb as much of those costs as he can — but he also notes how important it is to increase the wages of his workforce right now. 

This is something that also worries Sophia Hilton, founder of Not Another Salon. She is concerned that without pay rises, her staff won’t have a good “quality of life”. When you consider that 65% of hair professionals experience anxiety, burnout or depression according to a survey carried out by L’Oréal’s HeadUp, it makes sense that Hilton wants to keep her staff happy. Hilton also reminds me that, according to the Salon Employers Association, the average hair salon takes home just 80p for every £120 earned. Meanwhile, Payscale research says that hairdressers earn an hourly salary of £9.20, which is less than the National Living Wage of £11.44.

For Hilton, whose salon’s prices begin at £75 for a cut and blowdry, dropping prices any further would mean an “industry collapse”. It’s a similar story outside London. Courtney Cross, owner of Individual Chair in Nottingham, says she wants to keep her prices at an affordable level (a wash, cut and blowdry here would set you back a friendlier £35) but tells me that she is no longer earning a “liveable wage”. Someone, whether it’s the client or the hairstylist, has to foot the bill.

The impact of not being able to afford a haircut

Some might consider haircuts to be a treat but research shows that they are far from a frivolous expense. A poll carried out by L’Oréal Professional on 2,000 British people found that 74% of women said having their hair done professionally supported their mental health and wellbeing. Then there’s the issue of “pretty privilege”, which occurs when systemic biases on perceived attractiveness affect how you’re treated. Lila, who’s from the Middle East, believes haircuts are not a luxury but a necessity. “I’ve been in situations where managers have told me to ‘tidy up’ my hair at work,” she says. “For me, haircuts aren’t just self-care. I believe society won’t take you seriously if your hair isn’t ‘looked after’. The sad reality is that many women need to look ‘groomed’ to just exist peacefully in society.”

This is especially true for women of colour, who have to battle race-based hair discrimination in the workplace. According to CROWN Act Research Studies, Black women’s hair is two and a half times more likely to be perceived as unprofessional. More than 50% of Black women feel as though they have to straighten their hair to be successful in a job interview, and one-fifth of Black women aged 25 to 34 have been sent home from work because of their hair.

When Black women’s competence is judged via their hair, it’s no surprise that some are upset with the recent boom in prices. Rianna, 30, says she’s been quoted between £300 and £800 for knotless braids, with the added expectation of paying extra for any synthetic hair and styling gel used. When asked if she thinks prices should be cheaper, she said there’s no cut-and-dried answer: “It’s tricky because braiders charge for their time — and I totally get it. Extra small braids can take anywhere between six to eight hours depending on the braider, and from their perspective, they need to be paid for their time.” This empathy is widespread but it doesn’t make things any easier for clients. Work aside, lots of Black women opt for protective styles for holidays. “It’s sad to think that if we [Black women] want to go on holiday or to a festival, our first thought is, What the hell do I do with my hair?” says Rianna. “Normally I’ll get a protective style for ease, but this means spending £500.” 

Many Black women have taken to social media to share their frustration with rising salon costs. Some clients report having to arrive with pre-washed hair to avoid being charged extra, while others have been faced with late fees and expensive deposits. Alicia Lartey, beauty writer and aesthetician, says that people are now having to choose between hair services and housing expenses or food. “No one wants to pay £300 for their braids,” says Lartey, who thinks the solution is simple: Everyone needs a pay increase.

Why is hair colour so expensive?

Nail artist Amy, 26, says she can relate to the rising costs of keeping a salon afloat. Despite this, she recalls feeling “robbed” when quoted £550 for a refit of her hair extensions. She now swaps services with a friend: “I live in London but I go back to Nottingham and do my friend’s nails, and in return she’ll cut my hair.” In between trips to her hometown, she cuts her hair herself. “I was never the person to do things myself — I’d never box-dye my hair — but I just can’t justify spending over £300 on it anymore.” 

Amy says that she was blonde before switching to her current shade of brunette, which is arguably easier to maintain compared to highlights or balayage. Like cuts, hair colour services are becoming more and more expensive, too. The rise of social media, unrealistic filters and speedy trend cycles has meant that clients are demanding more from their colourists. “Years ago a colour client would be in and out within three hours,” says Hilton. “Now they’re in the salon for six or seven hours.” These more complex services come with their own costs: more products and longer labour hours, yes, but a higher level of education is also needed.

It’s no secret that consumer habits are changing as we hunt for cheaper options but in a landscape where hairdressers are struggling to make a profit, this only lessens their takings further. Giuseppe Stelitano is a colourist and creative director who spoke to the BBC about this in 2022. “Clients [who] we’re used to seeing more regularly, like every eight to 10 weeks, now prefer to switch to something low-maintenance,” he told the publication. Instead, he said, his regular clients are seeing him just twice a year to maintain their colour.

What do I do if I can’t afford my haircut anymore?

It’s clear that hair services need to be made more accessible, whether that’s for Black women escaping judgment and stereotypes, people who are struggling with their mental health, or simply those who can’t afford the industry’s current prices. Until then, people are opting to cut their own hair thanks to influencers like Brad Mondo, who regularly posts in-depth tutorials on YouTube. This practice became much more common during the pandemic, when salons were shut for months, but for many people it has become a necessity. Hannah, 28, says that she has continued the habit. “I started cutting my hair during lockdown but carried on to save money — and now I find it fun,” she tells me. 

Likewise, Marcela, 35, has been cutting her own wavy hair for seven years. “My hairdresser used to cut my hair while dry, which made it easier for me to copy,” she explains, revealing that she uses a simple razor to get the job done. Following a boom in cutting hair at home, the likes of Boots and Superdrug now sell hairdressing shears for as little as £6. Both Hannah and Marcela attempt salon-style cuts, going far beyond the odd fringe trim and relying on themselves to create whichever looks they can manage.

But not everyone can cut their hair at home and nor should they have to. Not only is it unrealistic for some but it means that salons lose out during a time of hardship and low profits. Yet heightened prices are creating a kind of inequality that needs to be considered by salon owners nationwide. One such pro is Hilton, who recently introduced a ‘price inclusivity’ initiative that offers a menu of discounted services to those on lower incomes. “While the beauty industry slowly moves to being more inclusive, why are we not talking about the biggest exclusion barrier?” said Hilton in a press release where she pinpointed prices as that barrier. She continued: “Inclusivity these days seems to focus so strongly on sexuality, gender, and race. Whilst that is hugely important, in order to be truly inclusive we have to consider all aspects of inclusivity, and that includes economic access.” 

Ultimately, there need to be more price inclusivity initiatives but to offer such schemes is to be privileged and someone, somewhere is always going to have to take the financial hit — whether it’s the client or the hairdresser. This isn’t right either, so perhaps this calls for higher intervention; government-subsidised grants or price reductions would go a long way in solving this rising pricing crisis.

How should I tell my stylist that I can’t afford my hair appointments?

It’s rare to find a salon with a price inclusivity policy like Hilton’s but don’t be afraid to speak to your stylist if you’re struggling to afford your appointments. “I would always rather a client let me know what their budget is,” says Cross. “Then we can come up with a plan, like changing the service to something cheaper that still works.” Cross is aware that some salons allow clients to pay through Klarna, a buy now, pay later (BNPL) service. However, it’s important to note that the premise of BNPL is borrowing money, and that users are technically amassing debt.

Not long ago, I  “broke up” with my hairdresser when I couldn’t afford to be blonde anymore. I was so nervous to tell her that I couldn’t afford her services, especially as she’d been my hairdresser for around five years. She was lovely about it, helping me to decide on a new cut (no fringe, long layers) and a more low-maintenance colour (dark brown) that would stand the test of time. If you do speak to your hairdresser candidly, they can recommend tips and products to extend the amount of time between salon appointments, like hair glosses, sulphate-free shampoos and deep conditioning treatments.

Whatever you decide to do, remember to maintain an open dialogue with your stylist or colourist. While it’s easy to get frustrated with rising prices, the blame doesn’t sit with hairdressers; they’re just as frustrated with their ever-inflating costs.

*Name changed to protect anonymity

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