I have a love-hate relationship with retinol. On one hand, the active ingredient has done wonders for my skin, from reducing the appearance of dark spots to targeting uneven skin tone. Even so, I’ve always been slightly hesitant to make it a regular part of my routine. Most retinol serums trigger days of breakouts (often referred to as “purging”), irritation and redness before my skin calms down and the powerful ingredient gets to work. Trusting the process is great and all but I yearn for a retinol serum that is potent yet gentle — and doesn’t require a rocky probation period, so to speak.
Enter: Glow Recipe’s new Blackberry Retinol Blemish Serum.
According to the brand, this new serum is a powerful weapon against various skin concerns like clogged pores and discolouration. But it’s positioned to be gentle enough for nightly use, unlike many other retinol serums, which require a lot more thought. Though the brand is a massive hit with Sephora-going tweens, this retinol serum is marketed towards users in their 20s or older.
I’m in this camp, and as someone with skin that gets easily overwhelmed by retinol but still wants its rejuvenating benefits, I jumped at the opportunity to get my hands on an early sample of this serum. To get a second opinion, I also enlisted the help of a fellow R29er who has yet to give retinol serums a proper try. Keep reading to hear our honest thoughts on whether or not this new launch deserves a spot on your nightstand.
Glow Recipe Blackberry Retinol Blemish Serum, £40
What are the skincare benefits of the Glow Recipe retinol serum?
Right off the bat, this product hits different: Instead of the weak chemical smell I normally detect from other retinol serums, this greeted me with a sweet and luxurious blackberry fragrance. The formula does contain blackberry extract, an ingredient packed with brightening vitamin C, healing vitamin K and vitamin A (essentially what retinol is derived from). These are also antioxidants that protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals like pollutants and UV rays. Also notable is that blackberries are made up of 85% water. The brand claims that this makes the serum a great source of hydration for the skin.
The retinol serum has a watery texture that absorbs quickly. Unlike other retinol products I’ve tried, it wasn’t drying in a sense that I felt like I needed to top up with a moisturiser immediately. The serum actually features two ingredients I normally look for in my moisturiser: glycerin (effective at drawing moisture into the skin) and ectoin (which protects the skin barrier — the outermost layer of skin).
Like me, Ebony-Renee Baker, Refinery29’s fashion editor, was also pleasantly surprised by the texture; her only previous experience with retinoids was a serum that contains retinal (a lot stronger than retinol) and oil-reducing niacinamide. “The texture [of this Glow Recipe serum] is perfectly goopy,” says Baker — but don’t let that put you off. “It spreads well but doesn’t feel too thick before bed,” she adds.
Is the Glow Recipe retinol serum any good?
The star ingredient in this much-hyped launch is a 0.16% triple-retinoid, which includes retinol, retinal and retinyl ester. Without going too heavy on the science, here’s a quick refresher on the difference between them. Firstly, all three are derived from vitamin A. Retinal (often referred to as retinaldehyde) is known to be more powerful than retinol — and work 11 times faster. In this serum, it’s encased in a handful of highly moisturising ingredients so it’s more gentle on the skin. Meanwhile, retinyl ester is the least potent (and most stable) form of vitamin A out of the three.
This triple threat is the reason why my skin didn’t get irritated once in the six weeks I used the product. My skin looked brighter and more even, but I’m most impressed by the serum’s ability to target my spots. About four weeks in, I stopped using the serum for a few days since I wasn’t feeling well and didn’t have the energy to keep up with the routine. I get pretty bad acne when I get ill but as soon as I switched back to using Glow Recipe, my spots shrank and faded after three days.
Baker had a similarly positive experience: “I didn’t have any reaction to the product and have enjoyed using it, despite not having used a retinol serum before. The most noticeable benefit for me has been a lightening of dark spots on my face. I had a couple of acne scars, a mark from recently over-waxing my upper lip (oops) and have had the general pigmentation that I usually get during summer. These have all been reduced or disappeared completely. My skin has become brighter over the last few weeks, and these days I rarely feel like I need foundation to refresh my face or concealer to lighten my under-eyes.”
Baker tells me that since using the serum, she’s sure she has experienced far fewer spots than usual during her period. “I look forward to continuing to use the serum more frequently now and I’m pretty happy with my current clear complexion.”
Final thoughts
Overall, we are most impressed with the serum’s ability to clear out our pores quickly without causing any dryness or irritation — two common, dreaded retinol side effects. Both of us would happily incorporate this serum into our nightly routine, and have been using it alongside our usual suite of essentials, such as hyaluronic acid serums, face creams with niacinamide and ceramides, and of course, our SPF. Sun protection is a crucial step since retinol makes your skin more sensitive to sunlight.
At £40, it’s pricier than other popular retinol serums on the market, like CeraVe’s Resurfacing Retinol Serum, £23, and The Ordinary’s Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion, £11 — both R29 favourites. But there’s no denying that it delivers on its promise of smoother, clearer and more even skin without the irritating side effects. I predict a sell-out.
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