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Dyson recently launched its highly anticipated Airstrait tool, a hair straightener offering an innovative, game-changing, wet-to-dry flat iron solution that promises to cut drying time for all hair types — with no heat damage. It’s fair to say that the hair girlies were pumped, especially the natural hair tribe who have long been at war with products that claim to cater to afro hair textures. Historically, Dyson has always delivered a sleek and polished marketing campaign but a recently posted advert featuring a model with 4C hair sparked backlash. 

The short video posted to Dyson’s official social channels (which has now been taken down) showed a Black model with tight curls demonstrating the Airstrait’s wet-to-dry capabilities. After one pass of the Airstrait on a section of the model’s hair, there wasn’t a significant difference — and her hair, while somewhat looser, was visibly not straight. 

Although Dyson hair products have been known to be inclusive, offering a wide range of attachments for various hair types, with proven efficacy and technology designed to protect damaged or dry and brittle hair (common concerns for 4C hair), many Black consumers were not happy with the results showcased in the advert.

As the video did the rounds on social media, viewers voiced their frustrations. “Dyson know they wrong as hell for this” says a user on X, linking the video in question. “They’re purposely showing us that they created a product unsuitable for our hair as if they couldn’t say that by merely omitting us like they usually do,” reads another comment. Other users questioned whether the tool was switched on in the first place.

Does the Airstrait work for 4C hair or is this just another case of a brand taking a shortcut to appeal to Black buyers by “checking the box” on inclusivity yet not delivering on its promises?

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How has Dyson responded to the backlash?

At £449.99, the Airstrait is a costly investment and when Dyson claims it can deliver wet-to-dry straightening results, people expect as much. But for many, especially those with 4C hair, the ad didn’t inspire confidence. Beyond the issues with performance, there’s a feeling that this type of marketing is emblematic of a broader issue — a “here, damn” approach to inclusivity whereby a brand gestures towards Black consumers without truly understanding their needs or the unique demands of textured hair.

When asked about the backlash, Dyson released a statement to Refinery29 underscoring the tool’s versatility for all hair types. “Dyson is engineered for all hair types and textures. Demonstrating how our products work is our priority, and for coily hair specifically the Dyson Airstrait™ is best used to stretch the hair if this is your desired style or as a step in a haircare routine. This social media clip did not demonstrate this effectively and so we have taken it down.”

What do actual customers think about the Dyson Airstrait?

On the other side of the argument sit many natural hair beauty creators and specialists who have only good things to say about the tool’s results. Is the controversy simply the result of bad marketing?

“It does live up to the claims,” entrepreneur and content creator Josiane Konaté (@josianekonate) tells Unbothered. “It’s a hair straightener which takes your hair from wet or dry to straight, with no hot plates and no heat damage. Yes, it absolutely lives up to its claims. It’s not a flat iron. The name says it.” Josiane believes the backlash that the brand has received is unwarranted as the Airstrait is advertised as a tool to dry and straighten hair, which it does. “The Dyson Airstrait CAN take 4C from wet to straight with one pass when you section your hair in small parts. If you want to lengthen your hair more, you need more passes,” she adds.

Natural hair content creator Kemmy (@kemmystry), who participated in a Dyson demonstration, said in a video posted to Instagram: “It’s been VERY healing using @dysonbeauty heated hair tools without smoke being produced — iykyk. And I love that overall scalp and hair health is always at the core of Dyson’s innovations.” Kemmy and Josiane are among a large group of women with textured hair who have shown us how the tool works from beginning to end, and the verdict seems to be unanimously positive. As far as they’re concerned, the product works. Back in 2023, when Dyson originally unveiled its Airstrait technology, there were mixed reviews among Refinery29 staffers. Breanna Davis, who has 4B hair, said the “overall effect on my hair wasn’t as striking… I won’t go as far as saying that Dyson isn’t inclusive, because not every product under a brand is going to be perfect for everyone — but as for the Airstrait, I don’t think my texture was heavily considered.”

@josianekonate @dysonhair latest innovation is here: the Dyson Airstrait! It takes my hair from wet to dry and stretches out my hair, only using air to style and no hot plates. The intelligent heat control measures the temperature 30 times per second to minimize heat damage. It self cleans when you turn it on, there is a wet, dry and boost mode and you can also choose your desired temperature. This is how I use it on my wet 4c hair! I started on the wet mode for the first pass at the highest temperature, then went with a lower temperature for the remainder. It took me about four passes to get the results that you see. Because 4c hair has the tightest curl pattern, here are a few tips that might be helpful: •section your hair in small parts •use the diffuser to quickly dry the roots •take your time when going from the roots to the ends. •I’ve also tried using a comb before going through my hair with the Airstrait and I have to say, the results were so much better. So this was my quick look for a date with my husband 🙂 Let me know what you think! #dysonhair #ad #mydyson #4chairstyles #4chairdaily #4chairchicks #dysonairstrait #dysonon4chair #dyson4chair #airstrait4chair #airstraittutorial #airstrait ♬ original sound – Josiane – Latane Skincare

So what went wrong? There is a possibility that users were expecting silk press results — hair that is very flat, straight and shiny compared to stretched or “blown out” afro hair with texture — but Dyson never advertised such results. According to the brand’s official materials, the Airstrait is designed to cut down on both drying and styling time, offering an option that supposedly keeps hair safe from excess heat. It is not a traditional flat iron, with temperatures reaching 320°C (in “boost” mode only; its typical max is 285°C) compared to many hair straighteners on the market, which can heat up to 450°C. Its self-regulating intelligent heat control technology prevents it from getting too hot to avoid heat damage. There are no hot plates to transfer heat either; instead, the Airstrait relies on high-pressure airflow, which is unlike any other typical hair straightener. 

Dyson does showcase 4C hair in its marketing but it doesn’t promise a silk-press level of sleekness, which may explain some of the backlash. The reality is that if you want to achieve bone-straight hair, you may have to look into an alternative tool. 

However, in the marketing assets for other hair textures, the Airstrait results look closer to those of a silk press. So what results should those of us with afro hair expect when using the Airstrait?

“Afro hair comes in a variety of textures and coiliness. The results we see in this video are definitely a result for a 4 (A/B/C) type of hair if we want to refer to ‘categories’. It would have given a more ‘straight’ result on a 3-type hair for example. So yes, this is a realist representation. I like the fact that Dyson is not doing any false advertising here,” Josiane adds.

Sure, Dyson’s promotional material for 4C hair missed the mark on this occasion and may perhaps have been inadequate. For a Black audience investing in a premium tool, those nuances matter, but it’s certainly not a reflection of how the product works or the brand’s commitment to providing quality hair tools for all.

Should customers with afro hair  ‘manage expectations’ when using the Airstrait?

Some sceptics suggest consumers with afro hair should manage their expectations when buying tools that work on their hair. “How is 4C hair that hasn’t been blow-dried supposed to look on the first take? Some of you have delusions on the capabilities of your hair, at least the ad is honest,” commented one user on X in response to the backlash. “It’s supposed to look quite flat and straight, at least the shaft to ends,” argued another user in response. “This is not delusional, but based on experience using other products that achieved that result. The expectations are not unrealistic. This product doesn’t look like the heat settings were hot enough.” 

For me, this notion that Black consumers should adjust their expectations for hair tools doesn’t really have legs. Expecting Black women to lower their standards while paying premium prices is nonsensical. If you’re going to market a tool to us, it should work as effectively as it’s claimed to, and that shouldn’t come with the caveat of ‘managing expectations’.

“I honestly think we should never have to ‘manage our expectations’ when it comes to hair products or tools. Nowadays, there are numerous hair tools and products out there catering to 4C hair. We have an array of choices. When a brand advertises a product as being fit for 4C hair and it doesn’t deliver, that’s where we have a problem. False advertising!” Josiane says.

Textured hair has long been treated as an afterthought in beauty marketing. Telling Black women to manage their expectations around hair products suggests that we’re asking too much when we assume that a tool will work as promised. The implication is harmful, especially given that brands often price these products at a premium while delivering subpar results for textured hair. This sentiment stops us from holding brands accountable to innovation and reflects broader beauty standards and pressures whereby Black women are simply advised to ‘expect less’.

Ultimately, if brands want to cater to Black consumers authentically, they need to invest in the insights, engineering and marketing to meet the specific demands of textured hair (all of which Dyson says it has done). Inclusivity means more than ticking a box; it means delivering on promises made to each and every customer. I do think the Airstrait is worth a shot if you’re hoping to achieve wet-to-straight results quickly, though it’s a considerable investment. For silk-press results, recommended tools include the BaByliss PRO Elipsis 3100, £108.59, T3 Lucea ID Flat Iron, £223.94 and Remington PROluxe Straightener S9100, £89.99. I’d also suggest Dyson’s Corrale™ Ceramic, £299.99, which is particularly gentle on textured hair that has been processed and is heat-damaged. 

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